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Tie-dyeing, txoj kev dyeing los ntawm tes nyob rau hauv uas cov qauv xim yog tsim nyob rau hauv cov ntaub los ntawm sib sau ua ke ntau me me ntawm cov ntaub ntawv thiab khi lawv nruj nreem nrog hlua ua ntej immersing daim ntaub nyob rau hauv lub dyebath.Cov zas zas tsis nkag mus rau hauv cov hlua khi.Tom qab ziab, cov ntaub yog untied kom pom cov voj voog tsis xwm yeem, dots, thiab kab txaij.Cov qauv varicoloured tuaj yeem tsim los ntawm kev rov khi thiab dipping hauv cov xim ntxiv.Txoj kev siv tes no, muaj nyob hauv Is Nrias teb thiab Indonesia, tau hloov mus rau cov tshuab.Saib kuj tiv thaiv luam ntawv.

Ua ke mus rau thaj chaw muaj kev kub ntxhov ntawm xyoo 1960, 2019 tau muab cov kev tsis sib haum xeeb thiab kev nom kev tswv ib puag ncig, ua rau muaj kev nce ntxiv ntawm lwm qhov kev tawm tsam, ib qho uas zoo li zoo sib xws nrog kev lag luam nce ntawm khi-dye.Nyob rau saum npoo, ntau tus cwj pwm kev yug dua tshiab ntawm psychedelic luam tawm rau lub lag luam wistful induced nostalgia thiab universal xav rau lub sij hawm yooj yim.Txawm li cas los xij, muaj qhov qhia meej meej tias thaj chaw muaj kev kub ntxhov no tau tsim cov lus teb rau kev tawm tsam thiab kev xav tsis lees paub txog kev coj noj coj ua.Nrog khi-dye infiltrating cov khoom kim heev runway qhia xws li Prozena Schouler, Stella McCartney, Collina Strada thiab R13, nws yog undeniable tias zam tseem yog ib tug nom tswv, txawm li cas los xij, nws tsis paub meej yog tias tib neeg tab tom xaiv lub cim counterculture rau lawv cov txheej txheem peev txheej. tuaj yeem tswj tau kev ncaj ncees ntawm cov ntxeev siab swirls.

Thaum ib tug yuav xav tias khi-dye originated nrog Grateful Tuag, cov kua qaub mus ncig ua si thiab kev thaj yeeb nyab xeeb ntawm 60s, daim duab kos duab khi-dye tau siv thoob plaws ntiaj teb thaum ntxov li 4000 BC Indian Bandhani yog hom khi. -dyeing uas yog siv los kho cov ntaub ntawv los ntawm cov dyeing thiab siv cov ntiv tes plucking daim ntaub rau hauv me me bindings nyob rau hauv thiaj li yuav tsim ib tug figurative tsim.Lub sij hawm bandhani yog lub hauv paus los ntawm Sanskrit verb bandh, uas txhais tau hais tias "kom khi".Cov txheej txheem Bandhani yog sib cuam tshuam nrog kev ntseeg thiab kev ua koob tsheej xws li kev sib yuav lossis kev tsim, thiab feem ntau siv cov xim ntuj uas sawv cev rau qhov xwm txheej.

Shibori dyeing

Qhov thib ob hiob khi-dye txheej txheem paub rau txiv neej yog Eastern Japanese version ntawm ntaub manipulation hu ua Shibori.Siv ntau hom kev tiv thaiv dyeing, txoj hauv kev los tsim thiab ruaj ntseg ntawm textile thiab feem ntau siv nrog indigo dye, Japanese Shibori tau sau thawj zaug hauv lub xyoo pua yim thiab tseem siv niaj hnub no.Txawm hais tias kev siv cov dyeing thiab ties rau manipulate ntaub yog deb ntawm ib tug revolutionary tswvyim, siv bold colourways thiab ntau yam evolved hom kev tshwm sim nyob rau hauv lub 1960s thiab 1970s cov khoom tsim ib tug tshwj xeeb qeb nyob rau hauv lub textile manipulation qeb, tswj kev ncaj ncees ntawm Japanese Shibori thiab Indian Bandhani thaum them nqi rau cov hauv paus hniav ntawm cov txheej txheem.

Txawm hais tias tiv thaiv kev tuag thiab shibori cov tswv yim tau siv nyob rau hauv Western zam ua ntej 1960s, peb niaj hnub kev nkag siab ntawm khi-dye tau nrov los ntawm hippie kab lis kev cai thiab suab paj nruag toj roob hauv pes ntawm lub psychedelic era.Los ntawm kev cuam tshuam kev lag luam loj ntawm cov kua dyes squeezable, RIT Dyes tau qhia txog kev siv tau thiab tus kheej ntawm kev siv cov ntaub thaum lub sij hawm uas tib neeg tsis lees paub cov cai hauv zej zog thiab kev txwv hnyav tom qab kev tsis sib haum xeeb ntawm xyoo 1950s.Tshaj dhau theem ntawm kev noj qab haus huv-kev lag luam, cov dyes tso cai rau leej twg los koom nrog hauv kev txav thiab tsim lawv tus kheej cov cim ntawm kev thaj yeeb thiab kev hlub.RIT Dyes tau pom lub sijhawm rau kev loj hlob thiab pab nyiaj ntau tus kws ua yeeb yam los tsim ntau pua lub tsho khi-dye los muag raws li thaum xyoo 1969 Woodstock Festival hauv Bethel Woods, NY.Qhov no qhia txog kev sib tshuam ntawm cov nyiaj tau los thiab khi-dye, txawm li cas los xij, RIT Dyes tau txais kev coj noj coj ua, dhau los ua "kev cai" xim ntawm cov kab lis kev cai hippie.

Cov ntawv luam tawm psychedelic sawv cev rau kev xav tau thoob plaws ntiaj teb rau kev hlub thiab kev khuv leej nyob rau hauv lub sijhawm muaj kev kub ntxhov ntawm kev nom kev tswv uas muaj kev tsis sib haum xeeb, tsis muaj kev ncaj ncees, kev thuam nom tswv thiab Tsov Rog Nyab Laj.Cov tub ntxhais hluas kab lis kev cai tau tawm tsam cov kev saib xyuas ntawm kev hnav khaub ncaws thiab kev zoo nkauj uas cuam tshuam rau lawv niam lawv txiv tiam thiab tsiv mus rau ib qho piv txwv yooj yim dua.Hippies tsis lees paub txhua hom kev lag luam thiab xav kom muaj kev ywj pheej ntawm cov khoom siv cuab yeej, thiab khi-dye yog qhov kev loj hlob zoo.Lub peev xwm rau ib qho khoom tshwj xeeb thaum kawg ntawm txhua qhov kev sib kho dye tau cog lus rau tus kheej, ib yam dab tsi tseem ceeb rau kev ua yeeb yam.Nrov pob zeb ntaus suab paj nruag xws li John Sebastian, Jimi Hendrix, thiab Janis Joplin tau los ua cov cim ntawm Woodstock txav, hnav khaub ncaws nyob rau hauv lawv tus kheej tshwj xeeb swirls ntawm psychedelic xim.Rau cov neeg uas pom ib lub tsev nyob rau hauv kab lis kev cai, khi-dye sawv cev rau kev tsis lees paub ntawm kev coj ncaj ncees ntawm lub zej zog tsim.Txawm li cas los xij, rau cov neeg uas tsis lees paub qhov zoo tshaj plaws hippie, khi-dye yog lub cim ntawm kev siv yeeb tshuaj, tomfoolery, thiab kev tawm tsam tsis muaj tseeb.

Bandhani khi thiab dye

Thaum khi-dye outlasted Lub Caij Ntuj Sov ntawm Kev Hlub thiab Woodstock Festivals, cov ntawv luam tawm psychedelic pib ploj mus nyob rau hauv qhov chaw nyob rau nruab nrab-1980s.Txawm li cas los xij, ib qho subculture tseem ua siab ncaj rau cov yeeb yuj swirls: Deadheads.Cov kiv cua ncaj ncees ntawm Grateful Dead tau siv khi-dye, siv concerts ua qhov chaw lag luam thiab faib cov xim tshwj xeeb thiab cov ris tsho.Thaum lub band disbanded nyob rau hauv 1995, lwm yam cult classics xws li Phish nqa ntawm kev lig kev cai.

Txog thaum tsis ntev los no, khi-dye yog ib qho kev ua phooj ywg tom qab rau cov tub ntxhais hluas, tsis yog lub cim ntawm kev tsis lees paub rau kev tsim.Txawm li cas los xij, nyob rau lub caij nplooj ntoo hlav 2019, kev ua yeeb yam zoo nkauj tshaj plaws hauv kev ua yeeb yam tau pib qhia cov ntaub ntawv siab ntawm cov ntawv sau psychedelic hauv silhouettes sophisticated.Chris Leba's R13 Caij Nplooj Ntoos Hlav 2019 Npaj-to-War catwalk pom kev sib txuas ntawm kev nom kev tswv thiab kev zam siab, sib xyaw cov tub rog prints thiab ci dyes.

LEFT: Proenza Schouler Caij nplooj ntoos hlav/Lub caij ntuj sov 2019;RIGHT: R13 Caij nplooj ntoos hlav/Lub caij ntuj sov 2019

Chris Leba hais rau Kev Lag Luam Insider, "Nyob rau hauv Trump Era thaum txoj cai tswjfwm yog nrov heev, kuv xav tias khi-dye tuaj yeem pom tias muaj kev thaj yeeb nyab xeeb, tab sis tawm tsam tawm tsam cov neeg saib xyuas.Nyob rau hauv qee txoj kev, muaj ntau qhov sib xws ntawm cov keeb kwm yav dhau los thiab tam sim no.Nyob rau xyoo 60s, peb muaj Nixon hauv Tsev Dawb nrog cov tub ntxhais kawm tawm tsam tawm tsam txoj cai tswjfwm.Tam sim no peb muaj Trump hauv Tsev Dawb nrog cov poj niam, cov neeg tsiv teb tsaws chaw, thiab LGBTQ + zej zog tawm tsam rau lawv txoj cai. "

Lwm lub tuam txhab kev ua yeeb yam txhawb nqa Leba txoj kev xav, xa ib qho kev sib tw ntawm kev sib tw-dye silhouettes hauv catwalk.Los ntawm cov xim neon mus rau ntau lub suab nrov, qhov swirls ntawm kev tawm tsam tau hnov ​​​​ominously los ntawm cov saib.Nyob rau lub sijhawm uas muaj kev sib cav sib ceg, kev ua phem rau kev sib deev, kev tsiv teb tsaws chaw, thiab kev saib xyuas kev noj qab haus huv tau tag nrho zoo li poob lawv txoj kev xav ntawm qhov tseem ceeb hauv peb lub Tsev Dawb, cov tub ntxhais hluas kab lis kev cai yog ib zaug xav tau kev hloov pauv.Txawm hais tias hippie kab lis kev cai tsis lees paub cov khoom siv, tiam tshiab ntawm kev tsis sib haum xeeb tseem tsis tau ua, nrhiav kev tshoov siab los ntawm qib siab tshaj plaws ntawm cov khoom kim heev zam.Thaum Millennials yog co-opting khi-dye, nws tuaj yeem sib cav tias los ntawm kev siv kev ntxeev siab, cov tub ntxhais hluas tuaj yeem tswj hwm kev ncaj ncees ntawm psychedelic print.Txawm li cas los xij, nws yog qhov nyuaj los tiv thaiv kev hwm ntawm cov neeg tau txais kev ntxeev siab uas tab tom yuav $ 1,200 Prada khi-dye jumper, nws yog ib qho tseem ceeb kom nco qab cov kab lis kev cai qub hippie puag txhua tus uas xav ua neej nyob muaj kev khuv leej thiab nyob kaj siab lug.

Raws li peb txuas ntxiv mus rau qhov kev ntxhov siab ntawm kev sib raug zoo, kev nom kev tswv, thiab kev lag luam huab cua ntawm Trump tus thawj tswj hwm, nws yog qhov tsim nyog los tswj hwm kev ncaj ncees ntawm kev xav ntawm kev xav, thiab lub luag haujlwm ntawm kev hlub thiab kev thaj yeeb ntawm cov yeeb yuj swirls evoked.Nyob rau hauv lub siab zam, peb yuav tsum ua hauj lwm kom txaus siab rau khi-dye thiab counterculture txav nws symbolizes, es tsis tsim nyog qhov ua rau kev vam meej nyiaj txiag.Nyob rau lub sijhawm uas peb ntshai peb tus kheej txoj cai, khi-dye yog qiv lub suab rau cov hluas uas xav thov ntau dua.

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