Ibhulogi

I-tie-dyeing, indlela yokudaya ngesandla lapho amaphethini anemibala akhiqizwa khona endwangu ngokuhlanganisa izingxenye eziningi ezincane zempahla futhi azibophe ngokuqinile ngentambo ngaphambi kokucwilisa indwangu endaweni yokudaya.Udayi uyehluleka ukungena ezingxenyeni eziboshiwe.Ngemva kokoma, indwangu iyakhululwa ukuze iveze imibuthano engavamile, amachashazi, nemigqa.Amaphethini anemibala ehlukahlukene angase akhiqizwe ngokubopha okuphindaphindiwe nokucwiliswa ngemibala eyengeziwe.Le ndlela yezandla, evamile e-India nase-Indonesia, isiguqulelwe emishinini.Bona futhi ukumelana nokuphrinta.

Ngokuhambisana neziyaluyalu zezombusazwe zeminyaka yawo-1960, u-2019 uhlinzeke ngezimo eziguquguqukayo zezenhlalo nezepolitiki, okuqubule omunye umnyakazo ophikisana nosikompilo, obonakala uhambisana nokukhuphuka kodayi othayi ezimakethe.Uma ubheka nje, abaningi bathi ukuzalwa kabusha kwe-psychedelic printing kubangelwa isifiso esidalwe yimakethe kanye nokulangazelela okukhona emhlabeni wonke kwezikhathi ezilula.Nokho, kunezinkomba ezicacile zokuthi le ndawo eneziyaluyalu idale ukusabela ekuhlubukeni kanye nesifiso sokwenqaba izindinganiso zomphakathi.Njengoba kunemibukiso kanokusho yemigwaqo efana no-Prozena Schouler, Stella McCartney, Collina Strada kanye no-R13, akunakuphikwa ukuthi imfashini isalokhu iyi-ejenti yezepolitiki, nokho-ke, akucaci ukuthi njengoba umphakathi usebenzisana yini ne-counterculture uphawu lwe-ajenda yabo yonxiwankulu. ingagcina ubuqotho bama-swirls avukelayo.

Nakuba umuntu engase acabange ukuthi udayi othayi wavela kwabafileyo Ababongayo, uhambo lwe-asidi kanye namahippie anokuthula angama-60s, uhlobo lobuciko lwe-tie-dye lusetshenziswe emhlabeni wonke kusukela ngo-4000 BC Indian Bandhani kuwuhlobo lwethayi. -ukudaya okusetshenziselwa ukuhlobisa izindwangu ngodayi kanye nokusetshenziswa kwezinzipho ezihlwitha indwangu zibe izibopho ezincane ukuze kwakhiwe umdwebo ongokomfanekiso.Igama elithi bandhani lisuselwa esenzweni sesiSanskrit elithi bandh, okusho ukuthi "ukubopha".Indlela ye-Bandhani ixhumene eduze nenkolo nemicimbi yemikhosi efana nomshado noma imilindelo, futhi ivamise ukusebenzisa odayi abathile bemvelo abamele umcimbi.

Shibori ukudaya

Indlela yesibili endala yokudayi kathayi eyaziwa umuntu inguqulo yaseMpumalanga Japenese yokukhohlisa kwendwangu ebizwa ngokuthi i-Shibori.Kusetshenziswa amasu ahlukahlukene okumelana nokudaya, izindlela zokubumba nokuvikela indwangu futhi esetshenziswa kakhulu ngodayi we-indigo, iShibori yaseJapan yaqoshwa okokuqala ngekhulu lesishiyagalombili futhi isasetshenziswa nanamuhla.Nakuba ukusetshenziswa kodayi nezibopho ukuze kusetshenziswe indwangu kwakukude nomqondo woguquko, ukusetshenziswa kwemibala egqamile kanye namasu ahlukahlukene athuthukile aboniswa phakathi neminyaka yawo-1960 no-1970 imikhiqizo yakha isigaba esiyingqayizivele ngaphakathi kwesigaba sokukhohlisa kwezindwangu, ukugcina ubuqotho beShibori yaseJapane kanye U-Indian Bandhani ngenkathi ehlonipha izimpande zenqubo.

Nakuba amasu okumelana nokufa kanye nama-shibori asetshenziswa ngemfashini yaseNtshonalanga ngaphambi kweminyaka yawo-1960, ukuqonda kwethu kwesimanje kodayi othayi kwaduma ngesiko lama-hippie kanye nesimo somculo senkathi ye-psychedelic.Ngokuphazanyiswa kwezimakethe ezinkulu zodayi abawuketshezi abakhamayo, i-RIT Dyes yethula indlela efinyelelekayo neyomuntu ngamunye yokukhohlisa kwendwangu ngesikhathi lapho umphakathi wawunqaba imikhuba yomphakathi kanye nemikhawulo eqinile kulandela iziyaluyalu zomphakathi zama-1950s.Amazinga adlulayo wesimo senhlalo-mnotho, odayi bavumela noma ubani ukuba abambe iqhaza ekunyakazeni futhi enze izimpawu zabo zokuthula nothando.I-RIT Dyes yabona ithuba lokukhula futhi yaxhasa abaculi abaningana ngezimali ukuze bakhiqize amakhulu amaningana amahembe ahlukile we-tie-dyes azowathengisa ngesikhathi se-Woodstock Festival ka-1969 eBethel Woods, NY.Lokhu kwethula ukuhlangana phakathi kwenzuzo yokuhweba kanye ne-tie-dye, noma kunjalo, i-RIT Dyes yamukelwa isiko, yaba idayi "esemthethweni" yesiko lama-hippie.

Ukuphrinta kwe-psychedelic kwakumelela isidingo somhlaba wonke sothando nobubele ngesikhathi sezombusazwe esinesiyaluyalu esigcwele iziyaluyalu zomphakathi, ukuntuleka kobulungisa, amahlazo ezombusazwe kanye neMpi YaseVietnam.Isiko lentsha lahlubuka ekugqokeni nasekubukekeni okuqinile okwathonya isizukulwane sabazali bayo futhi kwadlulela endleleni elula yokumelela.Ama-Hippies anqabe zonke izinhlobo zokusungulwa futhi afisa ukukhululeka ezintweni ezibonakalayo, futhi i-tie-dye yayiyimpuphu yemvelo.Ikhono lomkhiqizo oyingqayizivele ekupheleni kweseshini ngayinye kadayi lalithembisa umuntu ngamunye, okuthile okubalulekile ekubhekaneni nosikompilo.Abaculi be-rock abadumile abafana no-John Sebastian, uJimi Hendrix, no-Janis Joplin baba yizimpawu zokunyakaza kwe-Woodstock, begqoke imibala yabo eyingqayizivele ye-psychedelic.Kulabo abathole ikhaya ngaphakathi kwesiko, uthayi-dye wawumelela ukwenqatshwa kwamasiko okuziphatha omphakathi omisiwe.Nokho, kulabo abenqaba ukufaneleka kwama-hippie, uthayi othayi wawuwuphawu lokusebenzisa kabi izidakamizwa, i-tomfoolery, nokuvukela okungadingekile.

I-Bandani tie kanye nodayi

Ngenkathi udayi othayi edlula i-Summer of Love kanye ne-Woodstock Festivals, ukuphrinta kwe-psychedelic kwaqala ukunyamalala ekudumeni maphakathi nawo-1980.Kodwa-ke, i-subculture eyodwa yahlala ithembekile kuma-swirls anemibala: ama-Deadheads.Abalandeli abathembekile be-Grateful Dead bamukele i-tie-dye, basebenzisa amakhonsathi njengendawo yokuhweba nokusabalalisa odayi abahlukile nezingubo.Ngenkathi ibhendi yahlakazeka ngo-1995, amanye amahlelo wakudala afana ne-Phish aqhuba isiko.

Kuze kube muva nje, i-tie-dye ibiwumsebenzi wobungane wasemuva wentsha, kunokuba uphawu lokwenqatshwa kokusungulwa.Kodwa-ke, eNtwasahlobo ka-2019, imibukiso yemfashini ephezulu yokunethezeka yaqala ukukhombisa izinhlobo eziphakeme zokuphrinta kwe-psychedelic kuma-silhouette ayinkimbinkimbi.I-catwalk kaChris Leba ye-R13 Spring 2019 Ready-to-Wear catwalk ibonise ukuhlobana phakathi kwepolitiki nemfashini esezingeni eliphezulu, kuxutshwa imibhalo yamasosha kanye nodayi othayi abagqamile.

KWESOKUNXELE: I-Proenza Schouler Spring/Ihlobo 2019;KWESOKUDLA: R13 Entwasahlobo/Ehlobo 2019

UChris Leba utshele iBusiness Insider, "Ngesikhathi sikaTrump lapho ipolitiki yasohlangothini lwesokudla inomsindo kakhulu, ngicabanga ukuthi uthayi ungabukwa njengombhikisho onokuthula, kodwa odelelayo omelene nabasenzi.Ngandlela thize, kuningi ukufana ngokwemvelaphi yangaleso sikhathi namanje.Ngama-60s, sasino-Nixon e-White House nabafundi ababebhikishela ilungelo lokulondolozwa kwemvelo.Manje sinoTrump eWhite House nabesifazane, abokufika, kanye nomphakathi we-LGBTQ+ olwela amalungelo abo.”

Amanye ama-fashion powerhouses asekela imizwa ka-Leba, ethumela inqwaba yama-silhouette e-tie-dye aphakeme phansi endleleni.Kusukela kumibala ye-neon ukuya kumathoni athulisiwe, ukuvunguza kokuvukela kwakuzwakala ngokwesabekayo kubabukeli.Esikhathini lapho ukuhlangana, ukuhlukunyezwa ngokocansi, ukuthuthela kwelinye izwe, kanye nokunakekelwa kwezempilo konke kubonakale kulahlekelwe umuzwa wokubaluleka eNdlu yethu Emhlophe, isiko lentsha selifuna ushintsho.Nakuba isiko lama-hippie lazenqaba izinto ezibonakalayo, isizukulwane esisha sezinxushunxushu asakenzi kanjalo, sithola ugqozi oluvela ezingeni eliphezulu lemfashini yokunethezeka.Nakuba i-Millennials i-co-opting tie-dye, kungase kuthiwe ngokusebenzisa ukuhlubuka, intsha ingakwazi ukugcina ubuqotho bokuphrinta kwengqondo.Kodwa-ke, kuyinselele ukuvikela ukuhlonishwa kwabathengi abahlubukayo abathenga i-Prada tie-dye jumper engu-$1,200, kubalulekile ukukhumbula isiko langempela lama-hippie lamukela bonke ababefuna ukuphila ngozwelo nokuthula.

Njengoba siqhubeka nokuzulazula esimweni esishubile senhlalo, ezombusazwe, nezomnotho sikamongameli we-Trump, kuyadingeka ukugcina ubuqotho be-psychedelic print, kanye nomsebenzi wothando nokuthula ama-swirls anemibala ekhishwe.Ngaphakathi kwemfashini ephezulu, kufanele sisebenzele ukwazisa i-tie-dye kanye nomnyakazo we-counterculture owufanekisayo, kunokuba silungiselele imbangela yempumelelo yemali.Esikhathini lapho sesaba khona amalungelo ethu ngabanye, i-tie-dye inikeza izwi entsheni efisa ukufuna okwengeziwe.

Ama-Sweatshirts ne-Hoodie, Ama-Tshirts nama-Tank top, Amabhulukwe, i-tracksuitUmkhiqizi.Intengo yesitolo esidayisa yonke impahla Ikhwalithi yefekthri.Sekela ilebula yangokwezifiso, Ilogo Yangokwezifiso, iphethini, umbala.